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Chow Bella (Phoenix New Times)

Posted on March 19, 2010

Dine4AZ Offers Restaurant Discounts With No Catch

A while ago I blogged about Groupon, the cool website that has daily discounts on everything from dinner at The Dhaba to trapeze lessons to yoga. The downside, as discovered after ...

AZCentral.com - Dining Reviews

Posted on March 16, 2010

Nakama Sushi Restaurant & Lounge, 4 stars

With one exception, our restaurant critic finds all the dishes at Avondale's Nakama Japanese restaurant delectable, reasonably priced and artistic.

Food Tramp Diaries

Posted on March 18, 2010

El Encanto de la Fuente- Fountain Hills

I live in a town, not even an official “city” in Arizona.  You may have heard of it, Fountain Hills is the name.  This is a very nice community.  Very safe, a great place to raise your kids.  It has a very large retirement and snowbird crowd and absolutely ZERO restaurants worth while to eat [...]

Foodies Like Us

Posted on March 17, 2010

Sangria and the Subjective Palate

By Beth Cochran, Marketing and PR Genius, Guest Blogger, Foodies Like Us What goes into a great sangria recipe? Well the answer to that question can be very subjective. But there is one thing most people agree on and that’s quality wine. On Saturday, March 13 nearly 60 people descended upon the home of John and Geri [...]

EATERAZ

Posted on March 18, 2010

WESSSSSSS-IIIIIIIDE IN THE SIZZLE HIZZLE!

You know, people talk a lot of shizz about the west side, and frankly, we’re not entirely convinced all that shizz-talk is justified. We mean, come on – they’ve got Applebee’s … and, um, Applebee’s. And an arena. But they’ve also got the West Side ThrowDown, an event being thrown by the folks at Intothesoup.com—a [...]

Good Greasy Eats

Posted on March 7, 2010

A Slice of Gluttony at Spinato’s Pizza – Tempe, AZ

I know, I know. I said I would be back February 1st and we are into March. What can I say, I was busy. So, lets get on with it… I blog therefore I am! I discovered Spinato’s Pizza hidden deep within the bowels of a Tempe industrial park and I have to [...]

eric EATS OUT

Posted on March 17, 2010

Scene Cuisine 2010: Dining in the Den of the Douchebags

Despite having grown up in Arizona, the downtown Scottsdale scene has always eluded me.  I don’t frequent establishments with velvet ropes at the entrance, and “bottle service” is a concept that is totally lost on me.  But visit south Scottsdale on any given weekend, and it’s clear that I am in the minority.  Parking is tough to come by; most parking spots are filled with chromed-out Escalades and BMW’s that the lessee cannot afford.  The scenesters are easy to identify by their Ed Hardy shirts, jewelry (the gaudy ring on the index finger is a dead-giveaway), and cheesy body art.  It’s a place where I don’t really fit in.  Simply put: it’s the land of losers and I’m not interested in being a part of it.  

Scientists know them as Masengillicus Ziplocopus.  You and I know them as Douchebags, and last night Ty Largo (www.juxtapalate.com), Joel LaTondress (www.onefordinner.com) and I set out to explore their habitat.  Despite our obvious bias against this scene, we set out for a night dubbed “Scene Cuisine 2010” and delved in to dine in the den of the douchebags. 

The evening started out innocently enough, as we met-up at Trader Vic’s to numb our senses before venturing out.  Sadly, expert cocktail crafter JK Grence had been assigned to a private party, but we enjoyed a few well-concocted Manhattans and Mai Tais and took in the scenery.  It was particularly amusing when a very straight-laced bar-goer made a point of approaching Ty and fawning over his jacket.  With Ty’s ego now nearly as large as his hair, we ventured into the night to explore the scene. 

Granted, it was a Tuesday night and most Scottsdale douchebags were still sleeping off their hangovers from the previous Saturday night, but it was DEAD.  The sidewalks were empty.  But we knew one place that just had to be ground zero for the cool people:  Urban 7.  Dubbed in a press release as “the next generation of Scottsdale scene nightlife”, we knew that Urban 7 had to be the epicenter of cool.  Based on the website, it was clear that this is the place where supermodels, billionaires, and people with genuine class spent their abundant leisure time.  If there is one thing I know for sure, it’s that press releases don’t lie and Urban 7 was certain to deliver on its promise of cool-redefined.  

Even better, the food was not to be an afterthought.  With a kitchen staff that “has trained with some of the best chefs in the United States,” I knew the food was going to be great.  Douchebags, in all their wisdom, are my de facto resource for recommendations on the best food in town. 

As you can see, Urban 7 was PACKED.  Not in a traditional sense but, rather, packed with air.  And empty tables.  And negative space. There weren’t any douchebags because there wasn’t any one there.  With the exception of our 3-top at the bar, there was precisely one other table with people at it.  And instead of thumping bass and an energetic buzz, there was the depressing background noise of a television hanging over the bar tuned to Lifetime Television.  

And the supermodels that adorn the walls and the Urban 7 website? They must have all been recovering from a wild night at Urban 7 on Monday night.  The only females in the restaurant were five homely girls wearing lacrosse shorts and sneakers that took up residence halfway through our meal.  I’ve been to nursing homes with more energy.  The women were prettier, too. 

As Ty sipped his Dirty Scottsdale (strawberry kiwi, X rated vodka, soda water, and sweet and sour mix), Joel and I checked out the menu.  We opted for the Urban Cowboy, described as “Grilled-Marinated Skirt Skewer/ Peppercorn-Garlic Paste/ Pickle Red Onions” and the Urban Parma, listed under the “Roman Crusts” menu heading. Flavor was as absent as the patrons.  The skirt steak was tough, chewy, and nearly flavorless.  I could barely gnaw it off the wooden skewer, and I’m fairly certain that the meat is still lodged somewhere in my gastrointestinal tract.  The always-insightful Joel LaTondress pointed out that the shaved cucumber accompaniment was a watery glob of mush that didn’t even taste like the vegetables it was made of.  

I’m not sure what they really ate in Rome, but I’m fairly certain that there was no product of Parma to be found on the pizza, which resembled a microwaved pizza laden with greens, un-ripe cantaloupe and a gristly cousin of prosciutto.  Fact: I was still chewing on a chunk of fat from the prosciutto nearly 30 minutes after I ate it.  Depressed from the Lifetime special, unsatisfied by “scene cuisine,” and disillusioned with the lifestyle of billionaires and supermodels, we bid farewell to Urban 7 in search of signs of life in south Scottsdale. 

And where did we find signs of life?  At FnB, of course, which was bustling with happy diners gobbling up fantastically prepared, high quality food cooked and served with love by Pavle Milic, Charleen “Badass” Badman and team.  Honestly, it’s a study in contrasts.  On one side, you have Urban 7, into which huge sums of money were invested on a shaky concept that pays homage to the antiquated and out-of-fashion notion of “excess.”  On the other side, you have FnB.  Tiny, unpretentious, focused and efficient.  The entire restaurant could fit within the bar at Urban 7.  And although Urban 7 likely packs in the douchebags and their maxed-out credit cards on Friday and Saturday nights, FnB is doing 50 times the number of covers during off-peak nights.  It’s a disparate comparison, but what do you think Urban 7’s overhead costs are in relation to FnB? 

The Braised Leeks with Mozzarella, Mustard Bread crumbs and a fried egg (enthusiastically punctured by Pavle Milic) were a revelation of substance over style, and the Grilled Broccoli with Meyer Lemon Aioli highlighted the freshness of the product.  It goes to show that high quality ingredients will always prevail over fussy preparation. 

The Grilled Lamb Tenderloin, procured from a small farm in California, was rustic and satisfying and the Bluenose Bass with cauliflower, hazelnuts and citrus sauce was quite simply one of the best fish entrees I have had in recent years.  FnB may not be “scene cuisine” and it might not be where the douchebags dwell, but it’s a stunning example of substance trumping style. 

So, what lessons were learned during Scene Cuisine 2010?  First, it cannot be denied that Ty Largo has fabulous hair.  Although highly flammable, his coif is also supremely imposing and resembles, in shape, the famed “Prudential rock.”  Secondly, Joel LaTondress may not have trained “with some of the best chefs in the world” but I’m willing to bet that his worst dish is better than the best one at Urban 7.  Thirdly, I am glad that Masengillicus Ziplocopus has a place like Urban 7.  Much like lemmings following each other over the edge of a cliff, Urban 7 keeps the douchebags out of the good places like FnB.  

Did I mention that Ty has fabulous hair?

PHX Rail Food

Posted on March 9, 2010

Yogurtini

There's a great Seinfeld episode called, "The Non-Fat Yogurt." In the show, Kramer invests in a frozen yogurt shop, and the characters all start eating there regularly. Despite the claims that the yogurt is non-fat, the characters begin to gain weight. When lab tests are performed, the yogurt involved turns out to be full of fat, and of course even a fat-free product can be loaded with calories. Somehow, the typically convoluted episode also mixes in the New York mayoral race and Jerry's use of profanity in one of his stand-up routines. In contrast, this review will be apolitical and not contain any of George Carlin's "seven words you can never say on television." Instead, let's just focus on frozen yogurt, specifically Yogurtini, which brings the current froyo trend to the Cornerstone development, diagonally across the street from the University / Rural light rail station.

In a way, the fictional experience of Jerry, Elaine, George, and Kramer seems to be mirroring what's going on with the trend of frozen yogurt shops seemingly opening everywhere at once. All of these places claim to offer a tasty product with various health benefits, but actual results vary in practice. What's distinguishes today's wave of froyo from the earlier yogurt trend of the '80s is that after frozen yogurt became so sweet and adulterated that it was barely recognizable as yogurt, the trend has now moved back toward to a frozen dessert with an actual tart yogurt flavor. Combine that taste with a self-service, pay-by-weight business model and it's easy to see the trend that Yogurtini is part of. It doesn't hurt to have contemporary, minimalistic pastel decor either.

Yogurtini's name is indicative of its approach. The customers has the opportunity to take creatively flavored yogurts and augment them with a comprehensive array of fanciful toppings to come up with one's own personal frozen yogurt cocktail. It's all in the assembly-line formula replicated now at dozens of yogurts joints. The first step is to assess the day's spectrum of flavors. The first one is always the house tart. Every place has one of these now, but Yogurtini's seems to have a more impressive yogurt tang that the average tart froyo. Paired with fresh fruit toppings like kiwi, blueberries, or strawberries, it's a simple, straightforward, and appealing choice. There's always a second tart flavor available. Recently, it has been a combination of peach and mango, with notes of both fruits discernible. Free sample cups are available at the counter for anyone needing a taste before deciding.

Moving down the line, there are about half a dozen sweeter yogurts. Flavors like dulce de leche, red velvet, and cherry cordial all have a rich taste and mouth-feel. They're ideally suited for those who seek a yogurt product with a more pudding-like appeal, although they're identified as having the same active cultures as the tarter flavors. The peanut butter yogurt is a smooth treat; pair it with toppings like shredded coconut and sriracha, the infamous "rooster" hot sauce, for a powerful blend of tastes vaguely reminiscent of the peanut sauces and penang curries of southeast Asian cuisines. For added crunch, additional topping choices include nuts, oreos, granola, and Pebbles cereal in both Fruity and Cocoa varieties.

At the end of the line are the sugar-free yogurts and a sorbet offerings. This is the part of the line meant for those who want to avoid something, whether it's sugar or dairy. One nutritional point to keep in mind is that despite all the potential benefits of active cultures, minimal fat, and, in some cases, sugar alternatives, Yogurtini makes no pledge that all ingredients are natural. To be fair, that's standard for the frozen yogurt sector, which often relies on lengthy ingredient lists to manipulate yogurt into a soft-serve product in myriad flavors, all with the same malleable form. While the froyo flavors have a genuineness to their taste, the sorbets are not always as convincing. Customers seeking intense fruit taste might be better off pairing the original tart yogurt with generous scoops of fruit toppings.

The seating is both indoor and outdoor, and large windows keep in the interior illuminated with natural light. There's free wifi, too, and those always connected can often take advantage of deals announced via Twitter and Facebook. Right now, Yogurtini is a single location near the ASU campus, but the Web site announces ambitious expansion plans around the metro area and pitches franchising opportunities. In other words, there's a concept behind this shop waiting to be replicated in multiple locations if the public's sometimes fickle tastes and the difficult economy cooperate. Amazingly enough, we're only a few years away from the first freshman class at nearby ASU that will not have grown up with Seinfeld. If Yogurtini sticks around, at least the new students will have an opportunity to indulge in the characters' beloved frozen yogurt.

725 S. Rural Rd., Tempe AZ 85281 | Map
(480) 264-6805
http://www.yogurtini.com

Yogurtini on Urbanspoon

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