Homemade Applesauce – it’s not too late!

I admit I was a little late embracing apple season. By the time I finally made it out to Linvilla Orchards, pick-your-own season had just ended. Luckily, they still had plenty of apples. I bought a big box of “seconds” – apples with slight blemishes that are still great for cooking and half the price! [...]

Joe Sixpack: A beer a day for 10,000 days

THE FIRST was Dinkel Acker. Dale Van Wieren of Lansdale, Montgomery County, cracked open the dark German lager on March 19, 1971, wrote its name in a notebook, poured himself a glass and put the bottle on a shelf.

Hitachino Nest On Draft

Our favorite moment of last year’s Beer Week had to be the Hitachino Nest tasting at Jose Pistola’s. The beers on draft were just outstanding and meeting brewer Mikio Kiuchi was pretty cool too. He seemed to genuinely appreciate our enthusiasm. An enthusiasm that included us begging everyone in our cell phone to come out [...]

Pub & Kitchen To Answer Its Calling, Will Host Special Fried Chicken Dinner Next Week

We're betting it will be good.

Related:
Pub & Kitchen [ Official Site ]

The Cranberry Finally Realizes Full Potential

I've been baking so much in the past month that by the time Thanksgiving comes, I will just drink the blackest coffee I can blacken and eat rice crackers.

But not without cranberry cinnamon monster rolls.

I made some cranberry orange sauce and slathered it on my sheet of dough with Earth Balance, brown sugar, and cinnamon. It was a much messier concoction and not as easy to roll up or slice into rolls. It was GOOD. The cranberry takes over the cinnamon a bit.


I was inspired by Mr. Landers of North Port Fishington who tried this. I didn't do a cream cheese icing, although I have two containers of Tofutti cream cheese in my fridge and it would have been reality-burstingly insane. I would have made an icing if I were serving to other people. I oddly prefer a more savory roll. I think it's the yeasty flavor of the dough that cries out to me. It's serious business.

Philadelphia Pizza Reviews

Philadelphia Pizza Blog Reviews

The past two weeks I have made incredible progress on the Best Philadelphia Pizza Blog with various Philadelphia pizza reviews. I have journeyed all over the city of Philadelphia to uncover the truth behind the best pizza in Philadelphia. Although there is still plenty of more work to be done and much more pizzas to be eaten, many truths about the best pizza in Philly is slowly unfolding.

The following is the current list of the best pizza joints in Philadelphia. I have also included a list of those that I have given a yellow light (proceed with caution) and those that I just don’t recommend (red light). If you have been to any of these places or just would like to put in your two cents please feel free to comment below or on my other pizza blog.

Best Philadelphia Pizza

Green Light Pizza Reviews (that means GO)

Note: If a pizza place has received a green light then this automatically qualifies them into the Best Philadelphia Pizza Club.

Cacia's Bakery and Cafe - Northern Liberties
Carangi Baking Company - South Philly
Celebre's - South Philly
Criniti's Italian Restaurant - South Philly
Franco and Luigi's Pizzeria - South Philly
Gianfranco Pizza Rustica - Old City
Iannelli's Famous Brick Oven Bakery - South Philly
La Fourno Ristorante Trattoria - South Philly
LaScala's - Center City
Lazaro's Pizzeria and Grill - South Philly
Little Sicily Pizza Steaks and Hoagies - South Philly
Lorenzo and Sons - South Philly
Lorenzo's Pizza - Italian Market
Marra's Cucina Italiana Restaurant - South Philly
New York Italian Bakery - South Philly
Overbrook Pizza - West Philly (Overbrook)
Pica's Restaurant - West Philly
Pine Street Pizza - Center City Philadelphia
Pizza Hut - North Philly
Pizzeria Stella by Stephen Starr - Queen Village
Pizzicato - Old CityRustica - Northern Liberties
Santucci Brothers Square Pizza - Roxborough
Sarcone's Bakery - South Philly
Slice - South Philly
Soho Pizza - Old City
The Couch Tomato Cafe - Roxborough
Uncle Oogie's Pizzeria and Specialty Sandwiches - South Philly
Uncle Tomy's Original Pizza - South Philly
Villari's Bakery - South Philly

Yellow Light Pizza Reviews (that means proceed with caution)

Mama Angelina's Pizza Restaurant - Center City Philadelphia
Osteria - Center City Philadelphia
Pietro's Coal Oven Pizzeria South Street - South Philly
Top Tomato Pizza Kitchen - Center City Philadelphia

Red Light (Not Recommended)

Famous Napoli Pizza - South Philly
Joe's Brick Oven Pizza - Center City Philadelphia
Mack's Boardwalk Pizza - South Philly
N.Y.P.D. Pizza Department - Center City Philadelphia
Paolo Gourmet Pizzeria - Center City Philadelphia

Other Reviews

Maggiano's Little Italy Italian Restaurant - Center City Philadelphia

Please feel free to follow the links above to read the full pizza review of any of these Philadelphia pizza places.

Foie Gras Wars

“I like geese,” film critic Roger Ebert said, “but their livers seem to bring out the worst in people….”

Truer words were never spoken. And Philadelphia knows this all too well.

Ebert’s quote appears on the back jacket of the new book “Foie Gras Wars” by Chicago Tribune reporter Mark Caro. Chicago, Ebert and Caro’s town, was at the genesis of what Caro describes as “the world’s fiercest food fight.” And in this new book, Caro provides—for lack of a better phrase—a bird’s eye view of the entire deliciously sordid controversy.

No version of the story would be complete without including Philadelphia, of course. And two full chapters of Caro's book are dedicated exclusively to the drama that unfolded here in the City of Featherly Love.

There is much to appreciate about Caro’s telling of our little slice of the story. Caro spent some time in Philly as a student at Penn, so he knows the landscape. But he's also enough of an outsider that he brings a unique perspective to our saga. Moreover, even if you followed the issue closely as it was unfolding, Caro conducted sufficient independent research for the book (including new interviews and, apparently, reading court transcripts) to make the story fresh again.

But what I enjoyed most about the Philly chapters, even more than Caro’s playfully irreverent tone, was his ability to capture the characters at play, including David Ansill (chef and owner of Ansill), Nick Cooney (head of the Humane League, f/k/a/ Hugs for Puppies), City Councilman Jack Kelly, and Terry McNally (co-owner of London Grill). Regardless of whether you hold a fork or a picket sign in this debate, it won’t take long before you’re laughing out loud. Here’s an example:

Nick Cooney has a friendly face and a demeanor that says Polite Young Man. His brown hair is parted in the middle and has a bit of fluffiness to it. His almond-shaped hazel eyes draw you in with their earnest focus, while his small mouth rests in the position of a perpetual sigh. His nose is prominent but in harmony with a long, lean face that suggests a softer Adrien Brody. He wears button-down oxford shirts that tuck easily into his slim-cut jeans or khakis. He looks like the kind of guy you’d want your college-grad daughter to bring home, though that appeal isn’t limited to the twentysomething set.

“The first time I saw Nick Cooney, I wanted to fuck him,” said Terry McNally, the late-fortysomething co-owner of the London Grill.

Cooney is not legally allowed to come within 50 feet of her restaurant or house.

To find out exactly why Cooney was enjoined, you'll have to read the book. Or you can ask Caro yourself; I understand he'll be at the Penn Book Store on April 7 promoting his book.

But I will say this: I interviewed Nick Cooney in person for a piece I wrote for City Paper. And although Caro’s description of Cooney is accurate, I cannot say that I shared McNally’s sentiments.

No offense, Nick. My wings just don’t fold that way.

Stuffed Acorn Squash

I love acorn squash. It’s so cute and hardy and can be cooked in so many ways! Growing up, my parents used to make stuffed squash at least twice a month. While many people stuff squash with sausage, you’ll be happy to know that you can stuff squash with just about anything! You just need to decide if you’re looking for a savory or a sweet dish. savory 1. A grain. Think brown rice, couscous, bulgar, barley, quinoa, even a firm polenta. 2. A crunch. Nuts or seeds, to taste! 3. Herbs and spices. For savory, think thyme, sage, oregano, hot pepper. 4. Vegetables. For savory, think peppers, garlic, tomatoes (or sauce) hot peppers, etc. sweet 1. A grain. See above. 2. A crunch. A crunch. Nuts or seeds, or both! 3. Herbs and spices. For sweet, think cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, brown sugar, ginger, cardomom,, brown sugar, honey. 4. Fruit. For sweet, think dried fruits and berries (cranberries, apricots, raisin etc.) and fresh chopped apples, celery etc. For a recipe for the stuffed squash pictured above, go HERE. 

Fond

If Fond, one of the newest shoots to pop out of the fertile soil on East Passyunk’s burgeoning restaurant row, were applying for a job, its resume would certainly earn it an interview.

Le Bec Fin, sous chef. Lacroix, sous chef. Le Bec Fin, executive pastry chef. Lacroix, captain. Culinary Institute of America. That’s a sampling of the qualifications shared by partners Lee Styer, executive chef; Jessie Prawlucki, pastry chef and Tory Keomanivong, in the front of the house. It’s enough fine dining experience to not only sauce several brace of quail, but to ensure it’s done with impeccable panache.

But South Philly isn’t Rittenhouse Square or Walnut Street. Might this venture be, as they say in the world of HR, a tad overqualified?


Refreshingly, the answer is no. Instead, Fond is another impressive demonstration (see: Bibou) of how Center City talent can flourish in the neighborhood BYOB format.

The setting emphasizes an informal camaraderie, a far cry from George Perrier’s gilded palace. Photos of the three partners, hanging out, cooking food, culled from their scrapbooks and laptops, line the room’s warm yellow walls.

Regardless of the principals’ experience in Perrier’s domain, the concise menu at Fond reads broadly American. With the bulk of the entrees clustered just above the $20 mark, there’s no ground for sticker shock here. Plus, what it promised flowed out of the kitchen with near flawless execution.

A trio of appetizers showcased an eye for attractive presentation and a nose for deft flavor combinations. A punchy cinnamon gastrique enlivened three crispy yet tender veal sweetbreads, while a slaw of Asian pears delivered a hint of crunch. The richness from a sculpted mound of chicken liver mousse was nicely balanced by the acidity of crisp house-made refrigerator pickles.

Entrees were just as impressive. In a technique borrowed from Perrier at Le Bec Fin, Styer cooks his chicken breast in the oven on the bone, with the whole carcass. After the breast cooks through 80 percent of the way, he debones it then tosses it in a pan with butter to crisp up the skin. This execution, applied to an air-cooled bird from Canada’s Geanone Farm, ensured a tender breast and a soundly brittle exterior. The piperade of green pepper and onion added the welcome snap, both in texture and in flavor, that was becoming a pleasant routine.

Grilled asparagus was a step short from firm when served under a soft-cooked egg as an appetizer. (Blame the fall asparagus and check back next spring.) But the sins of the asparagus were less evident when sitting atop a beef strip loin, perfectly cooked to medium rare. Combined with Bordelaise sauce and gorgonzola cheese, this plate delivered a richness appropriate for the most expensive item on the menu (at $26). The only misstep was an oddly flaky charred red onion, denuded of any flavor. Where this touch was supposed to fit in the picture, I’m still not sure.

In these pig-crazy times, the New American menu without pork belly is a rare one. Luckily for Fond, theirs—cured, braised overnight, then seared—was one of the better renditions I’ve tasted, hitting the right balance between crisp skin and toothsome interior. Okinawan sweet potatoes, grown in Hawaii, added a sweetness that was not cloying, but filled with unexpected depth.


All the while, attentive yet unobtrusive service, well-versed in the intricacies of the menu, kept our meal moving at a relaxing pace through the final course.


Too often, desserts are the weak link in Philly BYOBs. With a pastry chef in the ownership group, that’s not an issue here. Asked to choose her favorite child, Prawlucki pointed us toward her pineapple and quince crumble. Topped with a sweet yet lactic vanilla bean crème fraiche, it hit the mark. But it paled in comparison to the passionfruit crepes, the most visually striking plate to land on our table. The ripe fruit folded into a velvety crepe was a good start. The carmelized bananas upped the ante. Rounded out with a large spoonful of coconut sorbet and a few dabs of dark chocolate ganache, the combined effect had us questioning Prawlucki’s loyalties.


Mistaken attachments aside, Prawlucki and crew aced the interview. Fond got the job. And I’m looking forward to sitting in on the one-year review. ■

This Weekend, Food Blob Style

This weekend seems to be packed with lots of delicious things to do and eat, check out the list below and don’t forget, you can always check out our calendar for daily events or email us at phoodie[at]gmail[dot]com with your event tips. FRIDAY: · Don’t forget, today is the daythat Koo Zee Doo starts serving up brunch. · [...]

Zahav

Tomorrow morning I take off for the Foodbuzz Food Blogger Festival in San Francisco. This is an inaugural event for Foodbuzz, the online food community who provides food related advertising on my site. Aside from hosting the festival, Foodbuzz goes out of it's way to get foodies together to share new experiences in cities across the U.S. They hosted an amazing dinner at Fork for Philly bloggers last year, and just a few weeks ago we met up again at Zahav in the name of Foodbuzz.

Because we were all adventurous and willing to share, every person at the table ordered the three course tasting menu. This is probably one of the most worthwhile tasting menus in the city at just $36.

I'm a sucker for a good cocktail, especially if it involves some sort of lemon or lime component, I can't help it, citrus makes me weak in the knees! I thoroughly enjoyed the Lemonnana, a bourbon cocktail with muddled mint, fresh lemon juice and verbena. You can order this pretty drink by the pitcher, too!

Complimentary pickles and olives, as well as a three compartment tray of condiments (Za'atar, green chili paste and harissa) were brought out first and our knowledgeable server let us know the condiments were to be used throughout the meal to accentuate all of the dishes. Unfortunately, the little dish was lost amongst the many plates on our table, but fortunately no one felt that any dish was under seasoned enough to warrant the use of the additional condiments. The tasting menu starts with a tower of 8 salads, all vegetarian, and all but one gluten-free! As well as a large bowl of traditional hummus served with laffa bread and cucumber slices for our gluten-free diner. My favorite salads included the spiced pickled pumpkin, the stewed okra and the cous cous tabbouleh with pomegranate seeds.

The first round of small plates included a take on moussaka, served in it's own little skillet, eggplant was laced with kashkaval cheese and tomato. Fried cauliflower was served with labaneh sauce with chive, dill and garlic. Not being a huge fan of cauliflower, I liked the dish least at the table, it wasn't as crispy as I would have liked, but the sauce was divine. A generous portion of chopped liver was served with rye toast and sauteed cippolini onions. And lastly, the grilled duck hearts blew everyone away. Served atop dirty rice with toasted pine nuts, the duck hearts were meaty but tender under your teeth and melted in your mouth. I would jump at the chance to eat this dish again.

Stuffed peppers were also a big hit. Small paquillo peppers were loaded up with duck confit and almonds, then served with a warm salad of grapes. Sweet, savory and an unexpected win in my book. Also a big hit were the beef and lamb meatballs, spiced with cumin and served in a light tomato sauce over rice and beans. Similarly, a grilled merguez sausage was delicately spiced mixture of lamb and beef served with cous cous and a peppery matbucha sauce.

What tasting menu is complete without dessert? None in my opinion, and that's why Zahav's tasting menu is so wonderful. A wonderful starter, three small plates and dessert! I ordered the chocolate cake with tahini frosting. The cake was dark and rich with chocolate flavor, while the tahini frosting was lightly flavored with sesame but a bit on the grainy side.

Zahav brings a true taste of Israel to Old City and has one of the most worthwhile tasting menus available in Philly. Vegetarians and meat-eaters alike can leave Zahav feeling satisfied and perhaps exploring foods they never would have tried elsewhere. Don't skip trying a cocktail, they're totally worth it.

Zahav
237 Saint James Place
(At the base of Society Hill Towers)
Philadelphia, PA 19106
215.625.8800

GQ Names Jose Andres "Chef of the Year"

from Grub Street Los Angeles

Chef Jose Andres

Jose Andres has been chosen as GQ's "Chef of the Year." Alan Richman explains that even when immersed in molecular cooking techniques, it is the Spanish master's simplicity that is appealing. Richman details five tapas plates that seduced him at Andres' Jaleo, Minibar, and Zaytinya in D.C. and The Bazaar in L.A., from Ferran Adrià-influenced parmesan eggs migas to straight-forward selections of Iberian ham and Middle Eastern spreads.

Along the way, we learn that Andres was forced to master tortilla Espanola by an insistent Jean-Louis Palladin, who was not pleased with the version he'd ordered at Jaleo, and also that the chef is in his sixteenth year of playing with a recipe for modern patatas bravas despite the fact that everyone already likes them the way they are. Last month, Esquire named The Bazaar their "Best New Restaurant of 2009," making us curious what Andres has in store to build on his stardom in 2010.

Jose Andres: big Chef, Small plates [GQ]
Earlier: Jose Andres Sets the Table for Brunch at The Bazaar

Read more posts by Hadley Tomicki

Filed Under: superlatives, best chef of the year, gq, jaleo, jose andres, lists, minibar, the bazaar, washington d.c., zaytinya

IN PRINT: Meal Ticket tackles Autumn 2009

Photos | Mark Stehle If you picked up a copy of City Paper this week, you probably already peeped out our fall ‘09 Meal Ticket supplement, which features features, recipes and more. It’s now online, so be sure to check out Felicia D’s roundup of delicious fall dishes (featuring recipes from Fork and Sweetie’s Pie Diner) [...]

Koo Zee Doo -Portugueze in Northern Liberties