November 20, 2009 - 4:07 pm: Checking in on the New Menu at Death Company

13-Dish Introduction to Szechuan at Lan Sheng Szechuan Restaurant

Hell's Kitchen

As you can imagine, Hell's Kitchen can be a confusing answer to the question, “where should we have dinner?” Both the restaurant and the neighborhood from which it takes its name are a culinary unknown to most that don‘t live in the area. If you live there, chances are you constantly tell your friends about all the great restaurants you know about and yet you still can‘t get anyone to come eat with you. We are admittedly a little in the dark when it comes to Hell's Kitchen neighborhood favorites, but working and seeing shows in the area demands that you have a go-to spot. Our go-to in Hell's Kitchen is, well, Hell's Kitchen.

The casual but hip restaurant is not an attempt at authentic Mexican, but rather an inspired interpretation using Latin flavors and fresh ingredients. Think Rosa Mexicano but far less annoying, and much better entrées. The dinner hours are always crowded and noisy, as a Mexican restaurant should be. Lunch is usually less busy and equally delicious, but Hell's Kitchen is best enjoyed when the eating is accompanied with heavy tequila and beer drinking.

... read more

NYC Food and Climate Summit Registration

“Social Sundays” at Aroma Kitchen & Winebar

Posts of the Week

El Coyote

The Feed file: Bin Laden bites; pizza slice crackdown

pork & porcini terrine [Flickr]

thewanderingeater posted a photo:

Má Pêche

Post

© 2009 Tina Wong; The Wandering Eater. All Rights Reserved.

Patroon's Cream of Pumpkin Soup

(Serves 6)

Ingredients:

• 1 medium white onion, sliced
• 1 small pumpkin, cleaned of skin and seeds, sliced, approx. 5 cups
• 6 oz butter
• 1 medium garlic clove, smashed
• 1 medium white turnip, peeled and sliced
• 1 medium carrot, peeled and sliced
• 1 large potato, peeled and cut into quarters
• 1 quart chicken or vegetable stock
• ½ cup heavy cream
• 1 small, thin Baguette (French Bread), crust removed and cut into ½ inch cubes, approximately 3 cups
• Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

Procedure:
1) In a large saucepot over a medium heat, melt half the butter and sauté the onions and garlic until they are transparent.

2) Add the turnip, carrot, potato, pumpkin meat and stock, season lightly with salt and pepper and bring to a boil.

3) At the same time, sauté the croutons in the remaining butter over medium heat until they are golden brown.

4) Reserve approximately 30 croutons on the side as a garnish for the soup.

5) Add the remaining croutons to the soup and simmer for about 1 hour, they will break up and add a deeper flavor.

6) Purée the soup and add the heavy cream, bring back to a boil, adjust the seasoning.

7) Serve in warm bowls or small hollowed out pumpkins with the reserved croutons floating in the center of each.

Phone: (212)883-7373

Address: 160 W. 46th St., nr. Third Ave.

Things to Do in NYC This Weekend - Nov 20-22

Thirsty?  On Saturday, we will be heading out to Union Square Wines for the USQ Holiday Hypertasting.  There will be 6 hours of non-stop wine-tasting of over 100 wines.  From 1-4pm, champagne and reds will be poured, while from 4-7pm, a variety of whites ranging from the perennially good Conundrum (by Caymus) to big, bold reds from the Rhone like Chateauneuf du Pape will be on hand.  Admission is free and Union Square Wines is located at 140 Fourth Ave (at 13th St.) in NYC.

Hungry?  On Sunday, the New Amsterdam Market is back!  We had so much fun (and ate so much!) the last time we were there.  We'll be re-visiting old favorites like The Bent Spoon (for ice cream) and checking out new vendors like Intelligentsia Coffee and Tea and Stumptown Coffee Roasters.  Note that if you want a turkey, holiday roast, or pie, you will need to pre-order before Sunday.

Need to work it off?  The Pond at Bryant Park is open for the season and is one of the few places in NYC where you can skate for free (if you have your own skate; if not, rentals are only $12).  And if skating isn't your thing... 

...there's always drinks at temporary bar Celsius (where you might randomly bump into a couple of Mounties like we did a couple years ago) plus retail therapy at the pop-up holiday shops.  Have a great weekend!

 

p.s.  The Holiday Market at Union Square starts on Wednesday, Nov 25.  The holiday season has definitely begun! 

Mason's Version of Brooklyn Bowl; Pump Shutters on 38th

Kinds gross, Campbell's

MASONWIRE— Chef/TV star Sam Mason goes on the record about what went wrong at Tailor and what he's planning next: "The problem as he sees it was 'overzealousness,' from Tailor’s large serving staff to its exorbitant SoHo rent...he shared his intention of opening a smaller restaurant in Brooklyn. Thinking out loud, he said, 'Maybe it’ll be a place with a stage, where bands can play.'" How about that plus bowling and a bar? [NYT]

WILLIAMSBURG— Today Fork in the Road runs a listicle of their top ten favorite restaurants in Williamsburg (with some curious choices). Meanwhile, Brooklyn Based reports that one of the chefs at Egg (no. seven on the Voice list) has moved to Roebling Tea Room, while the better known Stephen Tanner has moved on to work on his new Metropolitan restaurant space. [FotR; BB]

MIDTOWN— Some additional shutter news from the tipline: "Sadly the Pump Energy Food location on 38th between Broadway and 6th is serving its last day of ultra healthy food :( I'm gonna have to find a new place to get my healthy lunches now." [EaterWire]

REALITY TV— Reader Brian Lerch reveals the new NBC/Magical Elves show won't be the only food show next year to be called "United Plates of America." He's been producing a show of the same name for the last year: "The show premise centers around celebrating cultural and culinary diversity in America. Each episode co-hosts Chad Kessler and Tati Amare are introduced to an ethnically diverse relationship through a viewer video submission or a live skype conversation. The viewers have an upcoming event in which they want to celebrate the uniting of their own distinct cultures in one dish that fuses both of their cuisines together- thus uniting their plates!" That sounds just as good as a glossy cutthroat reality competition. [EaterWire]

TOP CHEFFAGE— In a piece in Time, writer Joel Stein taste tests the Top Chef line of Schwan frozen dinners and realizes they aren't half bad. He also reveals that Top Chef alums are not paid for their efforts. [Time]

Friday Food Porn: Paseo's Roast Pork in Seattle

An Choi: Banh Mi n' About Me

Dear Food Diary:

Two month ago, while waiting outside the insane lines of the Bon Appetit Pop Up Cafe, I met my first fellow blogger Jennifer (Blogging Souls), an avid traveler, cook and food lover. After her recent return from the sights and sounds of Brazil (makes me so jealous), she asked to do an interview "about me" over some "bahn mi"... get it? I know, I know, don't worry, I'm keeping my day job.

We shared the Goi Cuon Ba Mon - Salad Roll Sampler: Pork Basil Meatball, Eggplant and Grilled Shrimp. The Pork Basil Meatball (Nem Nuong) was a hit, the pork had really nice spices and enough flavor to make the bland lettuce, rice noodle and wrap stand out without any dipping sauce. That meatball is good enough to pair with anything and I liked their wrap better than the ones I get at home, it gives a good stretch and chew.

I've had soup and sandwich countless times, but never a Pho + Banh Mi Combo = $12.

I was so thankful when they let me have the Hue Style Beef Noodle Soup (Bun Bo Hue), which was clearly stated "excluded" on the menu. A small bowl of comfort. A flavor explosion in soup form. A spicy beef broth with lemongrass and sweet pineapple. Plus a little sourness from the fresh lemon, which made it pop. The round rice noodles had really fun chewy personality and the beef was tender, BUT, as I kept digging, in search for the described pork salami & pig trotter, they were no where to be found. I know they did me a favor for making this part of the combo, but if it's gonna be a non identical, half version of it, I should of been warned.

The Classic Cold Cut Special (Bahn Mi Dac Biet), which had 5 spiced ham, pork salami, headcheese and house pate was pretty good, I loved the headcheese, but the baguette didn't compare to the ones in chinatown. Everything was fresh, flavors and quality of the meat were by far better than Paris in chinatown, but somehow both of us agreed, we had better Bahn Mi or Vietnamese food in general, outside of NY. I love the joints in Toronto and Jennifer remembers West Coast.

If I were in the area, I would go back for the Hue Style Beef Noodle Soup, but would make sure, I get EVERYTHING, pig trotter and all, which is optional on the menu. Not for this chubby.

P.S. Chubby's RATING:

www.anchoinyc.com

85 Orchard Street

212.226.3700

Mix It Up: Blood & Sand at Highlands

[Photos: Highlands; Laren Spirer]

In my mid-20's, I used to think all Scotch was the same. It was something that old men drank, and something that my male friends were "learning to drink." Every time I tasted it, all I got was heavy peat and smoke, so I assumed that's what Scotch was all about.

Flash forward to the present. Not only have I matured greatly since then (or so I'd like to think), but during the course of my spirits education—both formal and informal—I have learned just how wrong I was back then.

Highlands, New York's West Village Scottish bar, is a perfect place to educate yourself about Scotch whiskies. Take some time to taste and learn which ones suit your personal preferences; they've chosen about thirty, and compliled brief tasting notes on each, but their selection goes beyond the printed list. That said, Highlands isn't all about the Scotch. The comfortable, sophisticated atmosphere lends itself to a visit just to perch at the bar, no matter the type of tipple you prefer. They offer beer, wine, and a handful of seasonal cocktails, as well as modern Scottish-influenced small plates, like a lamb sausage roll and House Cured Loch Duart Salmon (haggis is reported to be coming in the not-too-distant future).

A recipe for my favorite Scotch cocktail, after the jump.

If your preference is for a cocktail, ask one of the plaid-shirted barmen for a Blood and Sand. This classic cocktail features Scotch and got its name from from the 1922 film starring Rudolf Valentino and Rita Hayworth (Valentino plays a bullfighter). Brian McGrory at Highlands makes his with Highland Park 12 year, a single malt whisky aged in sherry barrels, and slightly tweaks the traditional recipe, which calls for equal parts Scotch, Vermouth, Heering, and Orange Juice.

Blood and Sand

2oz Highland Park 12 yr
1oz Cherry Heering
1oz Freshly squeezed orange juice
dash of freshly squeezed lemon juice
dash of bitters

Add of all the above ingredients to shaker over ice. Stir and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with an orange zest and a brandied cherry.

Highlands

150 West 10th Street, New York NY 10014 (map)
212-229-2670

Schumer Shops at Costco; Pelosi Prefers East Village Cafés

Our hip Madam Speaker was spotted on First Avenue this week, enjoying herself at corner coffee shop Tarallucci e Vino, while Senator Schumer stocked up on groceries at the Brooklyn Costco. Meanwhile, Luke Wilson took a date to Nello, and Da Silvano’s heated sidewalk seating drew the week’s biggest bold-faced crowd: A-Rod, Sean Lennon, and Wolfgang Puck. Elsewhere, Ramona Singer cried over halibut, and the East Side Social Club opened with a cluster of media types. More celebrity diners, below.

Bar Pitti: Ron Perelman ate at the Italian restaurant. [Page Six/NYP]

Charles: Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen celebrated the 40th birthday of Bill Collage, the screenwriter who penned New York Minute. M-K paid. [Page Six/NYP]

Chat Noir: Real housewife of New York City Ramona Singer cried at her birthday party. Guests — including the whole Housewives cast — ate “black-cat burgers,” chicken, and halibut. [Page Six/NYP]

Costco: At the Brooklyn branch of the mega-market, Senator Chuck Schumer was spotted pushing his shopping cart like a layman. [Page Six/NYP]

Da Silvano: Sean Lennon dined outside with eight friends. (Heated sidewalk seating, woo!) Separately, chef Wolfgang Puck ate with his wife. At another lunch hour this week, A-Rod came by for some upscale Italian. [Page Six/NYP, Cityfile]

Del Frisco’s: New Jet Mark Sanchez lamented his team’s recent loss, with a large group of pals, at the fancy steakhouse . [Page Six/NYP]

East Side Social Club: The Pod Hotel’s new Italian spot gathered Mickey Boardman, Michael Musto, Olivia Palermo, Luigi Tadini, Ali Wise, Ally Hilfiger, and Patrick McMullan at a party for Minnie Mortimer’s spring 2010 collection. This place is off to an interesting start. [Guest of a Guest]

Esca: Meg Ryan dined with Nora Ephron. [Just Jared]

Eskimix: Tyra Banks checked out the city’s latest fro-yo outpost. [Page Six/NYP]

Indochine: Ivanka Trump celebrated her 28th birthday at the French-Vietnamese restaurant. [NYDN]

Le Caprice: Harper’s Bazaar editor-in-chief Glenda Bailey dined with Lanvin creative director Alber Elbaz inside the Pierre Hotel. [Page Six/NYP]

Morandi: Halle Berry lunched at Keith McNally’s West Village spot. [Cityfile]

Nello: Luke Wilson took a female friend to the Upper East Side mainstay. [Cityfile]

The Russian Tea Room: At this classic Russian restaurant, Tim Burton toasted Johnny Depp, Patti Smith, and Helena Bonham Carter. [Page Six/NYP]

Tarallucci e Vino: House Speaker Nancy Pelosi had breakfast at the East Village coffee shop. [Page Six/NYP]

Read more posts by Mike Vilensky

Filed Under: celebrity settings, bar pitti, charles, chat noir, costco, da silvano, del frisco’s, east side social club, esca, eskimix, indochine, le caprice, morandi, nello, russian tea room, tarallucci e vino

Review Recap: Oceana

Yesterday, Sam Sifton awarded the expected two stars to Oceana, finding that in the move to larger digs, it had lost a star along the way:

More recent meals in the new Oceana, which opened around the corner from Del Frisco’s in the McGraw-Hill building in August, reveal a different scene: a retort to all those who thought the old Oceana was cramped and outdated, a little too much actually like a steamship. It is now a massive restaurant, open and white and blue and tiled, with enormous lamp fixtures that throw light into every crevice of the room, with giant flowers to soften that and beneath them deep leather booths with velvet backs and walnut trim…

Those who order carefully can partake of fabulous meals. They will certainly drink good wine, off a whites-heavy list that is ably negotiated by both waiters and sommeliers alike. But if the Oceana of old was a pleasant, shipshape room with elegant food and a caring touch, the new version is a high-functioning luxury mill, designed to service pre-theater crowds and to celebrate corporate success on expense-account dimes. It is in some ways a very good restaurant. But the room ensures that it is not entirely a pleasant one.

Although this counts technically as a demotion (since the old Oceana had three stars), the review finds plenty of things to like. Still, the chef and the owners are no doubt disappointed.

We and Eater made the identical two-star bets, winning $3 against our hypoethetical one-dollar wagers. 

Life-to-date, New York Journal is 72–29 (71%).

Fort Defiance

They serve slices.

Which is fine for a nosh but dear for a meal; compare the Fort Defiance muffuletta (above and below; $9) with a half-order from Central Grocery, in New Orleans, which reportedly served as its exemplar. That said, the bread in the Brooklyn sandwich is admirably dense yet springy, so it absorbs the marinade from the olive salad without falling to pieces. But thinking back to the Big Easy, I'd like more sesame seeds, more of a giardiniera sting in the salad, and, if not housemade charcuterie, perhaps a taller heap of cold cuts, too.

Fort Defiance
365 Van Brunt St. (at Dikeman St.), Red Hook, Brooklyn
347-453-6672
www.FortDefianceBrooklyn.com